[On-site] The charm of ‘Sweet-and-Salty’ Whisky revealed by a ‘Bunnahabhain’ Master Blender

Master Blender Julieann Fernandez of Single Malt Scotch Whisky ‘Bunnahabhain’ Visits Korea

If you’re not familiar with Bunnahabhain, it helps to start by looking at where the distillery is located. That means getting to know Islay, an island off the southwest coast of Scotland. Islay is renowned for producing heavily peated whiskies, including Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig. These are the whiskies often associated with a medicinal, iodine-like aroma reminiscent of antiseptic. And there are plenty of whisky enthusiasts who have become devoted to that distinctive character.

Bunnahabhain Distillery is located at the northernmost tip of Islay. Founded in 1881, the distillery is celebrating its 145th anniversary this year.

What makes Bunnahabhain particularly interesting is that, despite being one of the longstanding distilleries on an island synonymous with peated whisky, its whiskies show little to no peat character. The distillery has built its identity around a predominantly non-peated style. It does produce heavily peated whisky under the ‘Moine’ name, but most of its portfolio consists of non-peated expressions.

In brief, Bunnahabhain uses the clear waters of the Margadale River, which are free from peat influence. Its wort is fermented for a minimum of 52 hours in wooden washbacks before being distilled in some of the tallest stills on Islay. The spirit is then matured in sherry casks that previously held sherry wine. Another defining characteristic is a subtle saline note, influenced by the distillery’s coastal location and exposure to the sea air.

The reference to Bunnahabhain’s tall stills comes from their exceptionally long necks. Their distinctive shape has earned them the nickname ‘swan neck,’ as they resemble the long neck of a swan. The tall stills help produce a cleaner, more refined spirit.

Julieann Fernandez is a well-known figure in the Scotch whisky industry. She became a master blender at the age of 29, earning recognition as the youngest female master blender in the industry.

Fernandez studied forensic science at the University of Abertay in the UK. According to Campari Korea, which imports Bunnahabhain, her forensic approach to carefully analyzing evidence and data has carried over into her work as a blender, where she assesses the characteristics of different spirits and casks to determine the most suitable combinations.

In addition to Bunnahabhain, Fernandez oversees blending for several Scotch whisky brands, including Deanston, Tobermory and Ledaig. Her responsibilities include selecting casks based on the character of each distillery’s spirit, monitoring maturation, and making key decisions on final blending and new product development.

At a Bunnahabhain tasting, I had the opportunity to speak with Julieann Fernandez about the whiskies and several aspects of her work.

- Personally, Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old was a new and refreshing experience for me. I found it noticeably salty. Earlier, you mentioned that the sea air has a significant influence, but it seems that alone may not fully explain the salinity.

“The coastal salinity, or the saltiness of the sea, is closely related to the location of the Bunnahabhain distillery. Our warehouses are right by the sea, so the whiskies mature while being exposed to the sea air. The sea really does have an influence. The 12 Year Old can come across as saltier because, after maturation in sherry casks, it also spends time in bourbon casks, which can give it a more pronounced saline character than the 18 Year Old.”

- Do you also find that salty character in whiskies from other distilleries on Islay?

“Of course, other whiskies are also influenced by the sea. But Bunnahabhain is located at the northernmost tip of Islay, and the distillery grounds are quite expansive. We also have very large warehouses located directly beside the coast. The distillery’s geographic location and scale both have a significant influence on the whisky.”

- Using sherry casks is nothing new in Scotland. But Bunnahabhain also uses bourbon casks. Is there a particular reason for that?

“As you said, sherry casks are widely used in Scotland. We use bourbon casks as well because the sherry character of Bunnahabhain works particularly well with the soft texture that bourbon casks bring. There is also a tendency in Asian markets to prefer slightly sweeter and smoother flavor profiles. That is why we are focusing particularly on introducing Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old to consumers in Asia.”

Four Bunnahabhain expressions were presented at the master class, accompanied by a selection of dishes designed to complement each whisky. The food pairing was curated by Chef Park Dae-hyuk, executive chef of Spanish restaurant Gatos.

The whiskies served at the table were Bunnahabhain Stiùireadair, Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old, Bunnahabhain 18 Year Old and Bunnahabhain An Cuan Garbh No. 1. The Stiùireadair, 12 Year Old and 18 Year Old are all bottled at 46.3% ABV—not 45% or 50%, but precisely 46.3%. Fernandez explained that this strength allows drinkers to experience the whisky’s character in full while minimizing the impact of alcohol on the perception of its flavors.

Bunnahabhain whisky is non-chill filtered. In other words, it is not subjected to chill filtration. Whisky contains various compounds that naturally develop during fermentation and maturation. When whisky is chilled, some of these compounds can clump together and cause the liquid to appear cloudy. This is not a defect. Chill filtration removes these compounds by passing the whisky through filters at low temperatures. Bunnahabhain’s non-chill filtration process leaves these naturally occurring compounds in the whisky, with the aim of preserving as much of the character imparted by maturation, fermentation and the cask as possible. As Fernandez put it, this results in “a much richer flavor on the palate.”

The first pour was Stiùireadair, Bunnahabhain’s entry-level expression. Its color in the glass was distinctly natural-looking. Notes of dried fruit emerged first, followed by hints of caramel and nuts. A subtle maritime character lingered on the finish.

Stiùireadair is a Gaelic word meaning “helmsman.” As a symbol of Bunnahabhain, an image of a helmsman appears on the labels of its expressions.

The 12 Year Old is Bunnahabhain’s signature expression. It is matured using both sherry and bourbon casks. Again, notes of dried fruit came through, followed by berry flavors reminiscent of blackberries and a nutty character that lingered on the palate. Personally, this was the expression in which I found the most pronounced maritime and saline notes.

The 18 Year Old is matured in Oloroso sherry casks. Rather than the dried-fruit sweetness found in the younger expressions, it delivered a more confectionery-like sweetness, accompanied by subtle spice. About a minute after taking a sip, notes of raisins emerged on the nose. Its more pronounced sweetness, layered with a maritime character, created a distinctly appealing sweet-and-salty profile.

The final expression, An Cuan Garbh, is Gaelic for “the rough sea.” Bottled at 51.6% ABV, it is part of a collection inspired by the sense of adventure experienced by sailors at sea. The fruit character was more clearly defined, with peach-like notes and pronounced citrus aromas. Most notably, the fruit flavors lingered for an extended finish. This expression will be released as a limited edition in October.

When Bunnahabhain Distillery first opened its doors in 1881, there was little around it. Its remote location at the northernmost tip of Islay meant that a community was gradually built around the distillery for its employees. A school for their children and accommodation for workers were established over time.

That sense of community and the positive energy among the people who lived and worked there became part of Bunnahabhain’s story—and, in a sense, part of its whisky.

Good spirits often come with good stories. Bunnahabhain is no exception. Its story began with a group of people who came together in a remote corner of Islay, and that sense of community continues to shape the whisky the distillery produces today.