The Wine Academy Director Seo Han-jung

Seo han-jeong, director of The Wine Academy, has always been passionate about introducing people to wine. Perhaps it is only natural, having spent his entire life with wine and remaining committed to it to this day. Although his smile may not be something he was born with, Director Seo always wears a smile. Perhaps the smile comes naturally from wine, the elixir of laughter.

The title “sommelier” has long been associated with Seo han-jeong’s name. In 1970, at a time when he could hardly distinguish wine from medicine, he first entered the hotel industry. Four years later, in 1974, he began working as a bartender at the Ambassador Hotel, where he encountered wine for the first time. At the time, bartenders also performed many of the duties that would later become the responsibility of sommeliers.

For Seo, wine was initially something to be feared. He repeatedly made mistakes in front of guests, only to face the constant reprimands of his seniors.

But he did not want to give up. Since the work had been entrusted to him, he decided to take on the challenge and dug in his heels. That determination soon developed into a genuine interest in wine. He bought every book on wine he could find. There were virtually no Korean-language books on the subject at the time. For two years, he went back and forth between the hotel and an academy, determined to master “wine textbooks” filled almost entirely with English and Japanese.

In 1976, he moved to the Plaza Hotel, where he became the first person in Korea to officially hold the title of sommelier. He later joined the Shilla Seoul in 1984 and remained there until 2001.

In 1990, he founded the Korean Sommelier Association and served as its chairman until 2001. He now serves as honorary chairman, maintaining his longstanding connection with the organization.

The year before last, a 60th-birthday celebration was held with friends and colleagues who have long supported him, giving him an opportunity to look back on his 30-year journey with wine.

Director Seo has not yet retired from the wine industry. Since May 2001, he has served as director of The Wine Academy, a specialized wine school, where he continues to train the next generation of wine professionals.

Is wine really such a difficult drink to understand? Director Seo has a straightforward answer.

“I have been with wine for more than 30 years, but even now, when I drink at home, I simply use a ceramic-style glass. Sometimes I drink while watching television, and when I go outdoors, I might even use a paper cup. Wine is actually a very informal drink. You need a certain level of formality when selecting a wine that pairs well with food at a fine-dining restaurant, but in other situations, wine is a drink that can be enjoyed comfortably at any time.”

Director Seo points out that wine continues to be perceived as a luxury drink largely because, before wine imports were liberalized in Korea, hotels served duty-free wines primarily to foreign guests. Around the same time, wines that appeared as props in films and other media were also portrayed as expensive and sophisticated beverages, further reinforcing that image.

In his view, Korea’s drinking culture is changing, and wine is at the center of that shift.

Director Seo believes that every culture changes over time and that embracing such changes is essential for progress. In other words, Korea’s drinking culture has evolved from makgeolli to soju, beer and somaek, and wine is now emerging as an alternative. This also fits neatly with the recent trend toward lower-alcohol beverages, particularly among younger consumers.

He also argues that wine is a culture that Koreans should become familiar with from a business perspective in an increasingly globalized world. When hosting foreign visitors for a meal in Korea, or when Koreans travel abroad, unfamiliarity with the way wine is traditionally served as an accompaniment to food can easily lead to an awkward situation.

I introduced myself as a beginner and asked him to recommend wines that would suit me. Without hesitation, he asked, “Do you like something sweet, something dry and astringent, or something light and clean?” When I said I preferred sweeter wines, he immediately replied, “I would recommend wines from Germany’s Mosel region or wines made from the Moscato grape in Italy.”

“If you are new to wine, you simply need the enthusiasm to try different wines and then seek out a nearby wine shop or ask people around you for recommendations. It’s not difficult at all, is it?”

Director Seo says beginners should visit a wine shop within their everyday sphere, select wines they think they might enjoy and make the effort to taste them. Taking it a step further, he says, asking experienced wine drinkers to recommend wines suited to your individual preferences can make the experience even more rewarding.

“Don’t Make Wine More Complicated Than It Is”

“Wine can accommodate everyone. Anywhere in the world, it can be enjoyed by everyone, from ordinary people to the upper class. What other alcoholic beverage can do that? That is what makes wine special. The only differences are in quality and price. You simply drink it according to your own personality and preferences. Don’t think of wine as something too difficult.”

There is a fragrance about him. It is the scent of wine that has become part of him after so many years. For the men of this country, it is something to envy.

◇Wines Recommended by Director Seohan-jeong

/ Wines for Beginners

① Rosetta 2003 — Red wine, Italy; pairs well with chocolate; less than 8% ABV

② Moscato d’Asti — White wine, Piedmont, Italy; 5.5% ABV

③ Vallebelbo Moscato Spumante — Sparkling white wine, Italy; less than 8% ABV

④ Villa M Moscatel — White wine, Piedmont, Italy; pairs well with fish dishes and salads; less than 8% ABV

/ Wines for CEOs and Business Professionals

① Louis Latour Chablis — White wine, Burgundy, France; pairs well with fish dishes; 12–14% ABV

② Medoc Baron Henri — Red wine, Bordeaux, France; pairs well with steak; 10–12% ABV

③ Kendall-Jackson Zinfandel — Red wine, California, U.S.; pairs well with fish dishes and lamb; 12–14% ABV

④ Ch. Lynch Bages — Red wine, France